Post Whelping Timeline For Bitches & Pups

We will quickly run through a timeline of the first 8 weeks of development, the first 8 weeks of care, as well as care of the bitch until weaning is successfully accomplished. Not everything will be addressed because like I always say all dogs including puppies are different, so are their nutritional and exercise requirements, and NOW  their development and livelihood. This is just a glimpse into the basics of what we do here at NoVACAIN Kennels, as well as a short rough outline of what should happen and is required, while keeping in mind that each pups and bitches individual care will differ from the next.

Week 1 (Days 1-7)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. Pups rectal temperatures should be around 94-97 degrees, 90% of the time is spent sleeping and 10% eating; pups may lose 10% of its body weight after birth, but should start gaining it again quickly, doubling its birth weight by the end of week
2. Pups are very susceptible to heat and cold, their instinctive reflexes take hold, pups crawl to seeks warmth and to nurse, also are able to right themselves if placed on their backs
3. Pups needs constant care from the bitch even to the point of needing stimulation to urinate and defecate
4. The pups Central Nervous System is developing rapidly, review (ENS) which begins on day 3 of the puppies lives

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. On day 3 begin the Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS) procedure
2. Give the pups a quick examine and place them back with the bitch, chart the findings and weights daily; when handling keep towels near remember they urinate upon stimulation and will inevitably find your attention stimulating
3. Keep whelping box around 78-82 degrees; this means if it's hotter than 82 degrees, put a fan in the room or turn on the air conditioning, if it's colder than 78 degrees, get a heat lamp to put above the whelping box or s adjust the air vents in that area
4. Trim nails at the end of the week if needed

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. For the  first 24 hours the bitch is only given Bone Broth and Energy Drink, she should be fed the following morning if she wants to eat
2. Give the bitch  250 mg Vitamin C 2x’s daily for 4 days, and if the puppies are fussy hit the bitch with some Vitamin B complex
3. Mammary Glands should be checked twice daily, looking for signs of mastitis: swelling, hardness, pus, etc, as well as keeping an eye on vaginal discharge, looking for signs of infection
4. The bitches mothering instinct should kick in quickly following whelping, it is extremely important that you make sure she eats, drinks, and use the bathroom, you may even have to force her to leave the puppies to do these things.

TO DO LIST

1. Keep a careful watch for a green to dark green discharge, that may look black shortly after whelping. This is called LOCHIA, and in about 48 hours after whelping, this discharge should turn a rust-color. It should never have a odor and the bitch should still be vibrant, considering the circumstances, and not seemingly ill.
2. Keep detailed records on puppies developments, weights, and behaviors
3. Chart the bitches temperature for the next 7 days, 3x’s a day
4. Order wormer and vaccines if you haven’t done it already
   

Week 2 (Days 8-14)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. The temperatures of the pups should be around 97 to 99 degrees, their eyes should open around days 8 to 10, and their ears should open around days 13 to 17
2. Pups are a little more active very responsive to our and the dams touch, they have also become more relaxed now while continuing ENS

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Puppies are dewormed on day 14 with NeMex-2
2. Continue controlling whelping box temperatures
3. Continue with ENS
4. Trim nails weekly if needed

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. Bitch is dewormed starting on day 12 of puppies lives, for 3 consecutive days with SafeGuard or Panacur
2. Bitch should be eating about 3x’s her normal amount of food
3. Wash the bitch with Johnson and Johnsons Baby Bath

TO DO LIST

1. Finely grind and freeze Muscle Meat for week 3
2. Continue to keep detailed records on puppies development, weights, and behavior
3. Purchase Milk Supp supplies if you do not have them already

Week 3 (Days 15-21)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. The pups are awakening, their sense of smell is kicking on, and they are becoming more aware of their environment; they start to stand up as well as walk, they also begin to play with littermates, doing some mouthing as their teeth begin to erupt
2. Defecating and urinating now on their own without stimulation being needed, the pups start to discriminate where to relieve themselves from where they sleep
3. The pups should begin to lap liquids and nibble on food around this time so introduce (Milk Supp), as well as begin to introduced to finely ground muscle meat (Start with Chicken)

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Day 16 is the last day of the Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS) procedure
2. Give Kennel Jec-2 vaccines on day 21 (Bordetella and Parainfluenza), to help prevent Canine Upper Respiratory Infection
3. Give pups a old shirt of yours to play with, and start to add new stimuli for the pups like toys and weekly grooming sessions
4. Feed Milk Supp once a day, after 3 days introduce some finely ground Muscle Meat mixed with Milk Supp (1 cup Milk Supp to 1 oz. Muscle Meat)
5. On the last day of week 3 replace 2 nursing sessions, one with Milk Supp, and the other Milk Supp with Muscle Meat

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. Start to cut back on the bitches food on the last day of week 3, starting with ½ pound less, the weaning process has started, so milk productions can start shutting down.

TO DO LIST

1. Begin to weigh pups every 2 days while continuing to keep detailed records on puppies development, weights, and behavior
2. Purchase Milk Supp supplies if you do not have them already
3. Finely grind and freeze, Muscle Meat and Meaty Bones for week 4
   

Week 4 (Days 22-28)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. At 4 weeks the pups depth perception should start kicking in, and you can tell because they’re starting to use those legs well, but we have some new developments to talk about, they’re beginning to bark, to wag tails, to bite down harder, to paw, to bare teeth, to growl, to chase, and yes don’t forget they tire easily

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Deworming of the pups is required again with NeMex-2 on day 28
2. On day 2 of week 4 introduce new feed with finely ground Meaty Bones (Chicken Necks)
3. Puppy independence begins on day 3 of week 4 and can be overwhelming sometimes for pups, so grant the bitch access to be near the pups but not with them! The presence of the bitch alone should add comfort to the pups as well as the individual attention that the pups should be receiving from us the humans now

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. On day 3 of week 4 reduce bitches food another ½ pound because puppy independence has begun; separate the dam from her pups for the day so they can’t feed off the bitch for 24 hours, but grant the bitch access to be near the pups to comfort them if needed
2. The next morning grant the bitch access to her pups first thing in the morning to nurse them, then replace the next 2 nursing sessions for that day with Milk Supp, Muscle Meat, and Meaty Bone mixed, then allow her access to nurse them again before bed.
3. Repeat 1 and 2 over and over until weaning is over mid week 5, this routine prevents the bitch from being completely drained, it also triggers the bitches body to send signals to itself saying milk production isn’t needed anymore, and lactation can begin to shut down. The bitches teats will and should begin to dry up quickly, and hopefully without any incidents.

TO DO LIST

1. Make and freeze a batch of finely ground Muscle Meat, Meaty Bone, and Calf Liver for week 5
2. Limit bitch's access to pups before offering them food
3. Continue weighing pups every 2 days while keeping detailed records on puppies weights, developments, and behaviors
   

Week Five (Days 29-35)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. Rapid growth and development has already happened, now the pups start to wonder further away from their whelping box, and vigorous rough housing for dominance order has started; the pups may even form groups and participate in bullying activities, these groups may or may not always be the same but you may notice 1 or 2 pups forming a bond or separation a little stronger than others.
2. The pups are really starting to adapt to eating and drinking

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Give Canine Spectra 5 vaccines on day 29 (Canine Distemper, Canine Hepatitis, Canine Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza and Parvovirus)
2. Position the pens perimeter walls so that the pups are able to look outside.
3. Allow pups to nurse one final time on the 4th day of week 5
4. On day 2 of week 5 introduce new feed that has Calf Liver, and reduce the amount of Milk Supp in food
5. Introduce the pups to the other members of the pack in the home as well as new people

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. After day 4 of week 5, the bitch is done she’s no longer allowed to nurse her pups, the drying up process will start in the morning, and will last for the next 5 days.
2. Day 1 of dry up she is fed nothing, day 2 she’s fed ¼ her normal maintenance meal, day 3 ½ her normal maintenance meal, day 4 3/4 normal maintenance meal, and on day 5 she’s fed her full amount of normal maintenance meal
3. For the next 2 weeks give the bitch 250mg of vitamin C 2x’s a day, 2 Bovine Colostrum Caps before bed, and 1 additional tab of her normal Multivitamin in the morning, to help her recover from the strain of breeding, whelping, and raising pups
4. Keep a careful eye on mammary glands

TO DO LIST

1. Make and freeze a batch of Muscle Meat, Meaty Bones, Calf Liver, and now Calf Kidney
2. On the last day of week 5 introduce the pups to a secured sanitized patio pen
3. Continue weighing pups every 2 days while keeping detailed records on puppies weights, developments, and behaviors
   

Week Six (Days 26-42)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. Pups are thriving and have been enjoying looking outdoors and seeing other dogs go in and out, while interacting with them through the perimeter gates. They have their legs really under them running around in the pen, barking, growling, whining, some even howling.  The pups are really into feeding time and can’t wait to feed.

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Give Kennel Jec-2 vaccines on day 26 (Bordetella and Parainfluenza)
2. Time to start taking the pups outside to go potty and to play on a daily basis
3. On day 2 of week 6 introduce the pups to the new feed that has Calf Kidney
4. Individual attention crucial at this time, give each puppy time with you away from litter
5. Individually go over single word commands daily, sit, stay, come, names, outside, inside, potty, eat
6. Deworming of the pups is required again with NeMex-2 on day 42

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. Keep a careful eye on mammary glands until milk is completely dried up

TO DO LIST

1. Begin to check the pups weight weekly, while continuing to keep detailed records on puppies weights, developments, and behaviors
2. Make and freeze a batch of Muscle Meat, Meaty Bones, Calf Liver, Calf Kidney, and now Veggie/Herb mix.
   

Week Seven (Days 43-49)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. The pups now have total hearing and visual capacity, and will investigate everything. They are responding to the jinglebells well to be let out, yet still don’t respond to names and that’s ok. Going outdoors is the highlight of their day, oh and the attention that they get individually seems not to be enough. The whelping box has been removed and a large enough crate for all pups has been introduced.

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. On day 1 of week 7 introduce chicken legs, on day 2 introduce the pups to the new feed that has Veggie/Herb mix but begin to feed them in individual bowls.
2. Pack play is extremely important, but be vigilant also, begin to reinforce human commands sit, stay, come, names, outside, inside, potty, eat

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. Continue to keep a careful eye on mammary glands
   

Week Eight (Days 50-56)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. Wooohoooo they have begun to learn their names, and normally by now if you haven’t seen it already, the pups enter into their first fear period. Things may startle the pups like a bag flying in the wind, pans falling on the ground, the vacuum, trash cans and so on, but it's extremely important to reassure the pup right away and make them conquer the fear to build trust in you the human and confidence in the pup itself.

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Give Canine Spectra 5 vaccines on day 50 (Canine Distemper, Canine Hepatitis, Canine Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza and Parvovirus)
2. Deworming of the pups is required again with NeMex-2 on day 56
3. Don't ship pups, yet pups may be released into trustworthy hands at the end of the week

TO DO LIST

1. Introduce collars and leashes
2. Reinforce training daily, pups should really be getting the basics down.

ANY FURTHER QUESTIONS FEEL FREE TO CONTACT ME

ANTIBIOTIC COMBINATIONS

Alright Look,

I’ve found myself using a Antibiotic thinking this will do the trick, it will take care of the problem nicely and quickly, all should be well in 7 to 14 days. Yet that wasn’t the case, I forgot that dogs also can be infected by multiple strains of infection, or a infection can build up a resistance, or can just be really deep in the tissue, making it really hard for a single antibiotic to correct the issue. This is where the heavy hitters, hit squad comes to play, “Antibiotic Combinations”………..

“Antibiotic Combinations” stand down! The “Culture & Sensitivity Test” scouts have not returned, STAND DOWN!! It is “NOT PROPER PROTOCOL” to send in the Anti Combo’s without a “Full Report”!!! “TRAGEDY” can and will surely happen going in blind, “C&S TEST REPORT FIRST”!!!! We’re not trying our luck, we “TRAIN” to be RIGHT!!!!!

Oh yea, so in other words using combinations should never be common practice, there is a chance you’ll kill your dog. It is vital that an C&S Test is performed, so the RIGHT combination of Antibiotics are prescribed to fight the body invaders. Oh I understand yup, by now it’s a problem that’s getting worse quickly, yea may turn fatal if not treated, yet I still don’t openly recommend this. It’s hit or miss, 50-50, and I don’t nor won’t risk it; unless it’s my last option and trusted advice considered.

If you have absolutely no other choice; you CANNOT afford a C&S Test, or to visit any Vet, proceed with EXTREME CAUTION! Neither Christopher W. Jones or NoVACAIN Kennels, ACKNOWLEDGE nor take RESPONSIBILITY for the CHOICES ANYONE MAKES FOR THEIR DOGS AFTER READING THIS. WE RECOMMEND you at least call and talk to a Vet on the phone for advice, if a visit and C&S Test are out of the question.

I WILL NOT BE GIVING OUT DOSAGES WITH THIS ARTICLE BECAUSE YOU MUST SEE A VET TO GET THE RIGHT COMBINATION TO FIGHT THE ISSUE AT HAND…...

I’ll start with  the “Protozoa Reaper”, then the 3 Baytil combinations, followed by the Clavamox combination. I choose to write on these because, at some point in time on my journey with dogs, I personally have used them so I choose to write about them. I also feel it is important that people are aware of other options that may be helpful. Remember get a C&S Test and the vet will direct you.

PROTOZOA REAPER:

TMZ (Trimethoprim - Sulfa) & METRONIDAZOLE - A vicious combination when having to treat Coccidia and Giardia at the same time, yet this is only used if Albon and Fenbendazole aren’t correcting the issue.

BAYTRIL COMBINATIONS:

BAYTRIL - Well known in the community, and thought by many to be the one drug to run to, yet this Antibiotic should never considered a first choice nor used as a preventative measure, unless things are out of hand from the start. It is known for being useful in treating brucellosis, as well as treating ear, flesh, mammary, and urinary infections. WARNING! Over use of this antibiotic will render it useless. When it is found to be necessary, Baytril in combination with a few others can renew the effectiveness, as a team. Baytril and:

ANTIROBE - A good choice for unresponsive deep abscess, deep dental infections.

CEPHALEXIN - A better choice for deep tissue infections, unidentified uti’s, or if you’re trying to just cover everything.

CLAVAMOX - The best choice for deep tissue infections, unidentified pyometra, or if you’re trying to just cover everything.

CLAVAMOX COMBINATION:

CLAVAMOX - This is an enhanced form of Amoxicillin which makes it harder for infections to build a resistance, makes this significantly better at fighting infections. Great for ear infections, mastitis, pyometra, respiratory infections, and wounds. It is also safe for pregnant bitches. Clavamox and:

METRONIDAZOLE - The best choice for deep abscesses or flesh infections in my opinion. Simply because, these 2 work like a fine trained team, metronidazole going strong penetrating deep, granting access to clavamox to go further into the cells of the abscess.

CLOSING REMARKS:

We must remember that there’s a great number of Antibiotics and Antibiotic Combinations that can be used for many things, and each vet has their own Antibiotics that they like to prescribe. When considering a plan of action, let the vet know your suggestions but ultimately try what your vet has chosen first, because 90% of the time the vet has ran a C&S Test. Although we have remember that anything used inappropriately can turn fatal, so PLEASE seek the knowledge and advice of a vet or a veteran breeder.