WE STILL HERE......

🤫🤫🤫🤫🤫🤫🤫🤫 Started Scattered Bred, Now I'm Here I bred everything but Ragnar, my bitches gave me the consistency. You looking at generation 2 part 2, as well as generation 3. Yea yea yea many have more dogs bred, yet can't pick they own dogs out of a line up. Don't need a ton of offspring to prove what I say, ya dig..........

Still Focused

You'll never understand the true size of my animals without seeing them in person. Ragnar is big and Apache is short and compact both solid animals. But boy is it a major difference in size. When looking at the past 2 litter they are averaging in height around 18 inches to the withers, with the exception of 2 males Ronin and Achellies around 19 inches to the withers maturing closer toward the 20 inch mark, bigger than their sire, and 3 others Apache, Queen, and Lil Bay on the shorter end that will mature around 17 inches. Over all the pups look very very similar as they should, while being some beast in their own right, as it was bred into them. I'm truly pleased with what we have accomplished thus far and can see how we'll be doing in the future already. I'm about to lock some things down and best believe if you salty now, prepare to be in the dead sea, so take some water with you. Oh yea I rarely pull my females out when showing the animals, these bitches are sacred to me.

The Doubting Concern

Just a thought......

(Drumsticks)

There are many myths about feeding a Natural diet that will have you doubting every aspect of it. Honestly from the concerns of nutritional requirements not being met, or the fear of an overabundance of germs or bacteria becoming present, to the biggest one of them all; that dogs can not eat bones, should all simply be done with. The overwhelming proof from breeders whose animals have begun to live longer, while becoming less susceptible to ailments and disease, and overall simply a stronger healthier more vibrant animals should be the reason all veterinarians should start to recommend the switch to a Natural Diet. Although that is a big wish, that all veterinarians would recommend a natural diet, many have seen the light by way of us breeders who are steadfast with feeding our animals appropriately. Yet it is truly on us breeders to apply the knowledge we gain, while truthfully documenting the results, in order to inform our veterinarian of our findings with feeding a natural diet backed with straight facts.

(Heart, salmon with bone and skin, uterus, quarter leg, spleen, kidney)

When it comes to feeding a natural diet, providing your animal with the essential nutrients required to thrive are more easily met than one may think. Many years ago and still today they have classified the canid species as carnivores, and that simply means one who feeds on flesh. Today we have the advantage over those who came before us because we have the ability to provide more and pretty much shop world wide. Researching and connecting people locally and internationally using resources that they may have never known about. While we remember the knowledge they share with us on what and how vegetables, fruit, herbs, spices, and roots that are extremely beneficial to the health of all mammals. All of this makes it possible for me to say “meeting your animal's nutritional requirements are more easily met than you may think”. The first proof of nutritional requirements being met, is the most sought after relief from skin allergies, which is why most people consider making the switch to a natural diet anyways.

(Skin off Turkey Neck)

(Skin on Chicken Neck)

When it comes down to the consumption of bone by our animals we have to take a couple things into consideration. First your dog should never be given cooked bones. Cooked bones splinter and are extremely dangerous for the animal from nose to tail, becoming hard little spears because of the pressure under high cooking temperatures. Instead your animal should be provided with the naturally, uncooked, softer, digestible, non splintering, highly nutritious bone. And second, you should never make your animals weekly diet more than 50% to 60% (for young pups) max bone consumption. Feeding a stupid high bone diet daily thought out the week turning into a month, can cause an unsightly blockage in the intestine, which will require expensive surgery to correct, likely removing some intestine as well. My simple rule is, “never add extra bone without good reason. Yet it must be a skinless birds neck if needed, because the meat to bone ratio is already correct”.

(A blend with rabbit, duck, and beef)

Now when we think about germs and bacteria, the rules are the same rules that we apply for our own raw food handling. Just as you would wash your hands, your dishes, your counters and so on with a disinfectant, that same exact thing applies to your naturally fed animals. Wash their bowls and wipe down their feeding area with some form of disinfectant daily. Now if your true concern is the animal getting salmonella or e coli; the canid species has an extremely acidic guts which helps prevent bacteria from colonizing. This acidic gut united with enzymes in their saliva are known to have antibacterial properties, yet this makes it possible for their higher bacteria tolerance than you or I.  So in other words, it’s highly unlikely that your animal will get sick from a natural diet, unless they are already ill or their immune system has already been compromised. I often tell people, “ practice good hygiene and use your common sense, simply no spoiled, rotten, or molded meats or produce.

(Ribs)

The % Of Raw I Feed

Good grief, I can't keep a thing to myself. Lol I've been asked to get back to writing for sometime but now I have to be very selective with what I put out there. I've recently been going through my email with the subject, “FEEDING PERCENTAGES” so here it is, some of my notes.

The chart below is based off of 12 animals within 12 years, having their raw feeding requirements averaged, based on being owned, fed, and worked by NoVACAIN Kennels. I have been feeding these percentages to the 2017 and 2018 litters and have found great results, while tweaking it here and there when the individual requires so. My advice would be that all NoVACAIN Kennels bred pups be fed this way,  yet the caretaker must keep a watchful eye to make sure that each individual's nutritional requirements are being fulfilled, while being properly exercised.

A animals nutritional requirements being met doesn't just apply to a animal being underfed, but also must include being overfed.

Over feeding young animals which I often see with American Bullies, is very detrimental to the longevity of a animals bones, joints, cardiovascular, and respiratory systems. This stresses pasterns, elbows, hips, hocks, heart, and lungs. Commonly seen torn ligaments and sprains in young animals, also it causes the lungs and heart to overwork trying to keep the body going pushing blood and pulling in vital oxygen, and to sum that up shorting the lifespan from 8-12 to 2-5 years.

Anyways, I love keeping my young animals pretty lean and active allowing their bones, joints, heart, and lungs to properly form and become stronger and stronger. Around 13-15 months I add a little body weight on, not too much while a little heavier work begins allowing the heart to properly grow and work without being forced to overwork. At the 2 to 2 ½  year mark I tend to begin cutting them loose and letting them get wide open. The work starts to become intense, but man do they look good and have strong hearts, getting chopped up while beginning to fly.

Well that's enough chatter, the chart begins with the minimal ethical age that a animal should be allowed to leave the breeders care:

8-15 weeks 10%
Week 16 (4 months) begin transition
17-24 weeks 8%
Week 25 (6 ¼ months) begin transition
26-33 weeks 7%
Week 34 (8 ½ months)begin transition
35-42 weeks 6%
Week 43 (10 ¾ months) begin transition
44-51 weeks 5%
Week 52 (13 months) begin transition
53-60 weeks 4%
Week 61 (15 ¼ months) begin transition
62-69 weeks 3%
Week 70 (17 ½ months) begin transition
71 weeks + 2.5-3% adult maintenance
Animals 8 years plus have done extremely well being fed 2% 

18 of my most used and often asked about herbs/spices.

Basil: I call this a must have for any dog owner simply because it protects the liver. Basil is anti-bacterial, anti-cancer, and it bangs free radicals. Besides the most important previously mentioned tidbits I also use basil right before and after whelping a litter because it’s great at reducing pain and inflammation. 

Black Pepper: Seek out Master “Piperine” to enhance the bioavailability of your curcumin in turmeric by 1,000 x’s lol. Black pepper’s highly active natural chemical piperine increases nutrient absorption greatly in the body, hence when using vet prescribed drugs, hold fast “CAUTION”, because of the increased risk of accidental overdose.

Catnip: Here’s why ready, stimulates appetite in a hurry and aids in digestion, by adding ½ teaspoon per pound of food hits my dogs off with iron, magnesium, manganese, potassium,vitamins A, C, and E and a few others.

Cayenne Pepper: A crazy way to give vitamins A, B6, C, E, K, fiber, and manganese to our dogs, yet so much more to say the least reduce blood cholesterol. Cayenne like many other red peppers contain capsaicin, a potent inhibitor of substance P, and also known to kill ingested bacteria by stimulating the stomach lining to secrete protective juices which act as a first line of defense.

Cilantro: Mostly used on my bitches fresh the day after whelping a litter stimulates the appetite and helps in relieving gas and indigestion.

Cinnamon: Antioxidant overload in a great way and a must use. It's anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, regulates blood sugar, goes to war with free radicals, and protects against heart disease.

Dandelion: I recommend using the leaves which are a richer source of vitamin A than carrots, yet the entire plant can be used. Simply put the cardiovascular system, liver, teeth, and bones will love you. Dandelion’s contain vitamins, C, D, E, K, B complex, potassium, calcium, iron, thiamin, choline, lecithin, phosphorus, zinc, silicon, and riboflavin. Dry it all flower to the root and use 1 teaspoon per 25 pounds daily.

Dill: Look let me tell you the dill truth, it’s an anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antifungal, antibacterial, yet its greatest rolls are improved appetite and digestion by helping the gut process greater numbers of  nutrients from its food, instead of just passing them through the body as waste. Now I do not nor recommend the use of dill at all during pregnancy because you risk having a miscarriage.

Fennel: I use fennel for 2 reasons, the first is a detoxifier that contains vitamins A, C, niacin, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorous, potassium, zinc, and copper. Second for the benefits of increased omega-6 fatty acids and milk production, which in turn benefits the brain function and overall functioning of the now nursing puppies, but hold fast! Feeding fennel heavy can cause serious ill effects like, irregular heartbeat and trouble breathing.

Flaxseed: A must have source of omega-3’s & 6’s  fatty acids, with vitamins, antioxidants, and fiber that are in my opinion, greatly needed for cardiovascular maintenance, good skin, and the flashiness of a coat. I recommend that you ground it up fresh and use it within 3 days for best results.

Oregano: I love oregano myself, it’s crazy rich in antioxidants blowing blueberries out the water, backed with a great amount of Omega-3 fatty acids. It also holds a good amount of vitamins A, C, K, followed by iron, manganese, and fiber. Ok so besides what I’ve already mentioned oregano is simply the truth it’s highly known for being anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, anti-parasitic, anti-viral, backed with cancer-fighting properties; on top of having the ability to soothe a upset stomachs and relieving sore muscles.

Parsley: Anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, and rich in antioxidants this is another personal favorite for mine. Parsley is packed with vitamins A, B,  C, K, carotene, iron, calcium, and folate, promoting kidney health by filtering out the toxins.

Peppermint: I grow peppermint in my yard for a few different reasons. To calm upset stomachs, help combat respiratory infections, soothe dry skin in winter, as well as an antiparasitic when it clicks up with ginger and garlic.

Rosemary: This smells so good when grown around the yard, it also helps to prevent mosquitoes. Besides that I use rosemary for its anti-allergic, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, and antiseptic properties hands down one of the best.

Sage: Well here we go I always pair this with oregano to make a super base. Sage is remarkably great for bone, eye, immune, and skin health, its anti-inflammatory, and highly anti-microbial. Its loaded with antioxidants, vitamins A, E, and K, trace minerals like calcium, magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, and zinc. When you throw rosemary in the mix along with oregano it intensifies the allergen fighting properties as well as being a viscous GI infection prevention fighter.

Sea Salt: HOLD FAST!!!  The provided sodium, is NECESSARY for life!!! So much counts on the very small amount of sea salt that is taken in orally. It is vital for proper adrenal gland function,  muscle contraction/expansion, and nerve stimulation. The chloride helps produce the necessary acids needed to digest protein; which in turn produce the enzymes necessary for proper brain functioning and growth. The magnesium is critical for proper nerve transmission, early bone formation, and supporting a healthy heart.

Thyme: On any given day upping the thyme thats teamed up with sage, parsley, oregano, rosemary, basil, garlic, and ginger keeps my dogs respiratory system’s and brains on point year round, but especially in the cold winter months where brain function is slightly off in extreme cold. Thyme is anti-bacterial, antiseptic, antispasmodic, anti-cancer; and has vitamin K, iron, manganese, calcium, fibre and tryptophan, phytochemicals. Thyme is also known for its ability to discourage fungus and bacteria growth.

Turmeric: Anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, helps to heal and maintain gut and liver health, improves brain function of older dogs or one who don’t seem so bright, and so much more GOLDEN PASTE!!!!!!  ¼ teaspoon for small dogs, ½ teaspoon for medium dogs and 1 teaspoon for large dogs per day, mixed into food. 

07-08-2018 WOW

FACTS ABOUT OUR FAVORITE TREATS

Duck Feet: a natural tooth brush that also provides your dogs with a source of glucosamine, chondroitin, and calcium

Trachea: a natural tooth brush that is also high in protein, low in fat, and naturally high in glucosamine and chondroitin

Pig Ear Drum: a natural tooth brush, yet it contains a good amount of fat

Lung: a good source of protein, iron, zinc, selenium, and vitamin B12

Fish Skin: great source of omega fatty acids, more specifically the omega-3's

Make It Fresh

PART II.

Raw Food Veggie Prep

PART I.

Feeding Time 11-24-2017

Oh Okay Look Here........

Many times, as a breeder we must make decisions that may look crazy to the outsider yet strategic to us. It is our job to make the best decision for the next 4 generations of our breed. You may ask “how do you figure that our one decision will affect the next 4?”  Well simply put, we breed our pair which has 8 pups. Out of those 8 pups 4 are sold as pets to be spayed or neutered, 2 have been sold as show dogs, 1 sold as breeding stock, 1 breeders pick. The show dogs will be shown trying to become grand champions and if they are studs, most likely they have been breeding twice since becoming a champion. The breeding stock, umm yea BREEDING STOCK, oh yea and breeders pick most likely to breed to keep the blood going. Then from this 1 generation you can possibly have at least 4 litters which makes generation 2, then the cycle repeats and repeats quickly reaching the next 4 generations. So once again our decisions must be the best possible decision for the next 4 generations of our breed.

See I’m a little uneasy sometimes because too often people call breeding these animals a game, like its candy land or something.  Well to me and others like me, dogs are a part of who I am, not saying that it consumes me, but it completes the person I am still growing to be. When I learn more about or get around them I can find myself going into some type of euphoria, yet somewhat vulnerable which I am happy to know about myself (GUARD UP). I for one could never understand the mindset of many who breed what they do and try to push the exceptional as superior. See I have learned that I can’t focus on what they do too much because it may cloud the vision of my God Given Gift. What I can do though, is continue what I have been saying better yet doing, PRACTICE WHAT I PREACH. No better way to end this short rant, practice what you preach without pointing your finger in the wrong direction, when it simply should bend right back to you.

Keep It 100 & Stay Self Evident 

Vet Check

NoVACAIN Kennels SPORTS MIX

Getting ready to put in major work on SEPTEMBER 16TH at #WELCOME2VIRGINIA. True #AmericanBullieswill be out there working. Hosted by me Mr. NoVACAIN, sponsored by Holy Fire Kennels, The NoVACAIN Family, Talk of The Town Kennels, The Council Radio, Hard2See Bullies, The Drapery Shop, JJJ Painting, and a few others who wish to stay anonymous. 5 weeks until game time #WELCOME2VIRGINIA September 16th

Feeding & Caring For Stock Bitches Pre Whelping Timeline

Like I always say, all dogs are different and so are their exercise and nutritional requirements, yet we must agree that your bitch should already be in optimal health before even the consideration of breeding her. Remember this is only an outlined guide that needs tweaking here and there to fit the individual bitches needs.

4 Step Prep For Breeding

1. Have the bitch tested within 30 days of breeding for Brucellosis
2. If the bitch is going to be bred, on the 1st. day of bleeding you should vaccinate your bitch with an 6 way (5 way +  coronavirus) vaccine.
3. The bitch should be dewormed with Safeguard, starting with the first day of her heat. Remember Safeguard is given for 3 consecutive days, and repeat on day 15.
4. Wash the bitch thoroughly with non pesticidal shampoo. I use Johnson's & Johnson's Baby Wash  

So Let’s Get Into This

Often overlooked by many, yet an extremely important key to having a successful litter is nutrition. This is often thought of as simply switching or adding puppy kibble from or to adult kibble as being sufficient enough which I learned isn’t true. Many people may or may not tell you that they add a “few” supplements to the bitches diet which I also learned isn’t that good. I’ve simply switched or added kibble and used supplements and had decent results with litters back in 1996, but since 1998 I have learned how to gain great success helping bitches and litters thrive by understanding the benefits of raw feeding. I’ve seen bitches go from producing average litters, to bitches producing larger litters with all puppies vigorous, with the bitches staying vigorous themselves throughout the entire pregnancy; but the biggest bonus was the  decreased worry and tiring husbandry by me for an anxious, weak, or fatigued now dam who just produced a weaker, smaller, litter.

A well-balanced raw diet should include a variety of muscle meats, bones and organs that already has the bitch thriving. This is particularly important to the survival of the bitch as well as the expecting litter when it comes to breeding. We must understand that bitches who lacks important nutrients often decline much faster than a bitch being fed the worst possible kibble diet out there. Producing lower birth weights, pups that have trouble from the start or grow then decline right before or just after weaning, also making it more difficult for the bitches to recover to say the least. So it is extremely important that you feed the bitch properly so that the growth and development of the fetuses as well as the health and preservation of bitches themselves are being maintained.

5 things that I feel are very important to know.

1. Quality Meats preferred green tripe, then red meats, and muscle meats for supplying many nutrients, which are important for the production of red blood cells and optimal health.
2. Goat’s Milk, Eggs, Cottage Cheese, or Whole Milk Yogurt preferred “Raw” Goat’s Milk, for a healthy dose of vitamin D, which is important for the proper absorption of calcium, along with many more great nutrients.
3. Raw Bones which helps to support the dams calcium needs for producing milk as well as bone development of the puppies. My goto bones are Turkey Necks, Chicken Necks, and Duck Necks all have a great meat to bone ratio.
4. Omega 3 Fatty Acids sourced from Flaxseed Oil, Canned Salmon, Sardines, or my favorite Atlantic Mackerel which are needed in the development of both the brain and nerves, as well as having an effect on eyesight and the immune system. Meat gives you a good amount Omega 6’s so we focused in Omega 3’s
5. Organs such as Beef Liver for its bounty of nutrients, which are important in the development of the brain and spinal cord; but without overdoing it because liver is also high in vitamin A, a vitamin that you do not want to feed in excess during pregnancy. I avoid COD LIVER OIL altogether.

63 Days = 9 Weeks Pregnancy Time Give or Take 2-3 Days

WEEKS 1-4

So I’ve prepared the bitch by keeping her in top shape and just completed day 3 of breeding her,  right now she’s being fed to maintain her ideal winter weight for the first 3 to 4 weeks of pregnancy. In the winter I like to keep my dogs 2 to 3 pounds heavier than I do in the summer, keeps them a little warmer. Although every bitch is different remember things may need to change sooner than later depending on the individual bitches need. Remembering that every bitch has their own preferences during pregnancy and may even avoid some of their favorite foods during this time. Also during this time the bitches energy level will not differ much from what is normal for her. She is fed her normal meal of Frankenstein Mix for the first 4 weeks, if she continues to accept it.

By the middle of week 3, I slowly start to introduce Meatball Snacks to the bitches feed. My Meatball snacks are a naturally nutrient rich supplement, that has been improved through the years, used during pregnancy and throughout whelping to fuel the body as well as encourage feeding. Back in 1997 I had a bitch who wouldn’t eat anything that looked to big, so I was forced to come up with something that I could give her, that was small but full of nutrition so a meatball was my first thought, and it has worked ever since. Normally I only have to feed my bitches 2 to 4 meatballs a day because they will take their normal feed in between the meat balls.

WEEKS 5-6

The body has already begun to push waves of nutrients to the uterus, through the umbilical cords, into the developing puppies themselves, marking the start of space restriction inside the belly. Through the years I’ve learned that many of my bitches start to only eat a quarter of their normal meal sizes somewhere around week 5, so an increase in food is needed by offering smaller more frequent meals. If the bitch is still eating Frankenstein Mix continue with that but start to add extra chicken necks week 5, starting with a ¼ to a ½ pound, every other day while keeping a watchful eye to see if you need to add more or go daily. By week 6 start to add more tripe and/or red meat, starting with a ¼ to a ½ pound, every other day while keeping a watchful eye to see if you need to add more or go daily.

Week 5, I change up her exercise routine, her walks became shorter in distance but more frequent. I like to walk the bitch for 15 minutes in the early morning, 10 minutes in the afternoon, and 15 minutes before bed. The goal is to keep her strong, and fit without overexerting the bitch.

WEEKS 7-8

Man things have changed, yet another increase in food is ever so needed at this time. Usually the increase is  2 to 3 times the amount in weeks 1 to 4, but remember we have already started weeks ago so you should have a good feel to what your bitch needs at this time. The puppies are really booming and stripping the bitch of her nutrition so it’s critical that she keeps eating, even if you have to hand feed her. Feed her 4 to 6 times a day, while keeping a watchful eye on your bitch to make sure she not getting too thin or heavy. The goal is to have the bitch thriving and maintaining a healthy weight when she hits 60 days of gestation, prepared for whelping.

Week 7 start using only ½ of the Frankenstein Mix and replacing the missing ½ with Whelping Mix, while keeping a watchful eye to see if you need to add more food. At this stage in pregnancy if you do need to add a little more I toss in a few chicken necks.

Mid week 7 I make another adjustment to my bitches exercise routine, by cutting down the time and once again walking her more frequently. A 10 minute walk in the morning, 10 minutes in the early afternoon, 10 minutes in the evening, and 10 minutes before bed. I never force the bitch to walk letting her make the ultimate choice if she wants to walk or not, yet the goal is still to keep her strong, and fit without overexerting the bitch.

Week 8 start giving the bitch only ¼ of the Frankenstein Mix, also start giving her ¼ cup of Goat’s Milk once or twice a day if she will take it working your way up to 1 cup by the end of week

Mid Week 8 to Mid Week 9

Many bitches are  normally reluctant to eat more than one meal of meat during this week, and began to crave carbs and will carry this eating habit right into the first week of motherhood, and that’s ok. I try to keep them eating the Picky Carb Mix during this time to make sure I protect my bitch from complications that may arise from lack of calcium in the diet, but keeping them nutritionally fed. I have learned that the more I have prepared my bitches nutritionally in the beginning working her into this moment, the easier it is on my bitches and me when it come to keeping their nutritional levels correct.

WEEK 9-WHELPING

Now it is important to remember that during the last week of pregnancy the bitch will lose weight as her body prepares for whelping as well as working to move the puppies into the birth canal. Most bitches will eat very little if anything at all for three days prior to whelping and some also after, so it is particularly important that the bitches body be in optimum health before and during pregnancy and not lacking any nutrients or weight. I have learned that the more I have prepared my bitches nutritionally in the beginning, the faster they began to rebound and demand their food. It is very critical that you pay attention to your bitch, taking her temperature 3x’s a day, with the ingredients for the Energy Drink and Milk Supp ready, because if you have done everything successfully up to this point, your puppies should be more than you expected.

Now exercise is dictated by her, only taking her out if she wants to go, letting her lead the way while keeping the distance restricted to 1 block. Once the bitches temperature begins to drop I totally restrict her to the yard only, this is for her and the puppies safety.

THIS WAS A VERY FAST RUN THROUGH

Post Whelping Timeline For Bitches & Pups

We will quickly run through a timeline of the first 8 weeks of development, the first 8 weeks of care, as well as care of the bitch until weaning is successfully accomplished. Not everything will be addressed because like I always say all dogs including puppies are different, so are their nutritional and exercise requirements, and NOW  their development and livelihood. This is just a glimpse into the basics of what we do here at NoVACAIN Kennels, as well as a short rough outline of what should happen and is required, while keeping in mind that each pups and bitches individual care will differ from the next.

Week 1 (Days 1-7)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. Pups rectal temperatures should be around 94-97 degrees, 90% of the time is spent sleeping and 10% eating; pups may lose 10% of its body weight after birth, but should start gaining it again quickly, doubling its birth weight by the end of week
2. Pups are very susceptible to heat and cold, their instinctive reflexes take hold, pups crawl to seeks warmth and to nurse, also are able to right themselves if placed on their backs
3. Pups needs constant care from the bitch even to the point of needing stimulation to urinate and defecate
4. The pups Central Nervous System is developing rapidly, review (ENS) which begins on day 3 of the puppies lives

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. On day 3 begin the Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS) procedure
2. Give the pups a quick examine and place them back with the bitch, chart the findings and weights daily; when handling keep towels near remember they urinate upon stimulation and will inevitably find your attention stimulating
3. Keep whelping box around 78-82 degrees; this means if it's hotter than 82 degrees, put a fan in the room or turn on the air conditioning, if it's colder than 78 degrees, get a heat lamp to put above the whelping box or s adjust the air vents in that area
4. Trim nails at the end of the week if needed

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. For the  first 24 hours the bitch is only given Bone Broth and Energy Drink, she should be fed the following morning if she wants to eat
2. Give the bitch  250 mg Vitamin C 2x’s daily for 4 days, and if the puppies are fussy hit the bitch with some Vitamin B complex
3. Mammary Glands should be checked twice daily, looking for signs of mastitis: swelling, hardness, pus, etc, as well as keeping an eye on vaginal discharge, looking for signs of infection
4. The bitches mothering instinct should kick in quickly following whelping, it is extremely important that you make sure she eats, drinks, and use the bathroom, you may even have to force her to leave the puppies to do these things.

TO DO LIST

1. Keep a careful watch for a green to dark green discharge, that may look black shortly after whelping. This is called LOCHIA, and in about 48 hours after whelping, this discharge should turn a rust-color. It should never have a odor and the bitch should still be vibrant, considering the circumstances, and not seemingly ill.
2. Keep detailed records on puppies developments, weights, and behaviors
3. Chart the bitches temperature for the next 7 days, 3x’s a day
4. Order wormer and vaccines if you haven’t done it already
   

Week 2 (Days 8-14)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. The temperatures of the pups should be around 97 to 99 degrees, their eyes should open around days 8 to 10, and their ears should open around days 13 to 17
2. Pups are a little more active very responsive to our and the dams touch, they have also become more relaxed now while continuing ENS

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Puppies are dewormed on day 14 with NeMex-2
2. Continue controlling whelping box temperatures
3. Continue with ENS
4. Trim nails weekly if needed

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. Bitch is dewormed starting on day 12 of puppies lives, for 3 consecutive days with SafeGuard or Panacur
2. Bitch should be eating about 3x’s her normal amount of food
3. Wash the bitch with Johnson and Johnsons Baby Bath

TO DO LIST

1. Finely grind and freeze Muscle Meat for week 3
2. Continue to keep detailed records on puppies development, weights, and behavior
3. Purchase Milk Supp supplies if you do not have them already

Week 3 (Days 15-21)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. The pups are awakening, their sense of smell is kicking on, and they are becoming more aware of their environment; they start to stand up as well as walk, they also begin to play with littermates, doing some mouthing as their teeth begin to erupt
2. Defecating and urinating now on their own without stimulation being needed, the pups start to discriminate where to relieve themselves from where they sleep
3. The pups should begin to lap liquids and nibble on food around this time so introduce (Milk Supp), as well as begin to introduced to finely ground muscle meat (Start with Chicken)

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Day 16 is the last day of the Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS) procedure
2. Give Kennel Jec-2 vaccines on day 21 (Bordetella and Parainfluenza), to help prevent Canine Upper Respiratory Infection
3. Give pups a old shirt of yours to play with, and start to add new stimuli for the pups like toys and weekly grooming sessions
4. Feed Milk Supp once a day, after 3 days introduce some finely ground Muscle Meat mixed with Milk Supp (1 cup Milk Supp to 1 oz. Muscle Meat)
5. On the last day of week 3 replace 2 nursing sessions, one with Milk Supp, and the other Milk Supp with Muscle Meat

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. Start to cut back on the bitches food on the last day of week 3, starting with ½ pound less, the weaning process has started, so milk productions can start shutting down.

TO DO LIST

1. Begin to weigh pups every 2 days while continuing to keep detailed records on puppies development, weights, and behavior
2. Purchase Milk Supp supplies if you do not have them already
3. Finely grind and freeze, Muscle Meat and Meaty Bones for week 4
   

Week 4 (Days 22-28)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. At 4 weeks the pups depth perception should start kicking in, and you can tell because they’re starting to use those legs well, but we have some new developments to talk about, they’re beginning to bark, to wag tails, to bite down harder, to paw, to bare teeth, to growl, to chase, and yes don’t forget they tire easily

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Deworming of the pups is required again with NeMex-2 on day 28
2. On day 2 of week 4 introduce new feed with finely ground Meaty Bones (Chicken Necks)
3. Puppy independence begins on day 3 of week 4 and can be overwhelming sometimes for pups, so grant the bitch access to be near the pups but not with them! The presence of the bitch alone should add comfort to the pups as well as the individual attention that the pups should be receiving from us the humans now

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. On day 3 of week 4 reduce bitches food another ½ pound because puppy independence has begun; separate the dam from her pups for the day so they can’t feed off the bitch for 24 hours, but grant the bitch access to be near the pups to comfort them if needed
2. The next morning grant the bitch access to her pups first thing in the morning to nurse them, then replace the next 2 nursing sessions for that day with Milk Supp, Muscle Meat, and Meaty Bone mixed, then allow her access to nurse them again before bed.
3. Repeat 1 and 2 over and over until weaning is over mid week 5, this routine prevents the bitch from being completely drained, it also triggers the bitches body to send signals to itself saying milk production isn’t needed anymore, and lactation can begin to shut down. The bitches teats will and should begin to dry up quickly, and hopefully without any incidents.

TO DO LIST

1. Make and freeze a batch of finely ground Muscle Meat, Meaty Bone, and Calf Liver for week 5
2. Limit bitch's access to pups before offering them food
3. Continue weighing pups every 2 days while keeping detailed records on puppies weights, developments, and behaviors
   

Week Five (Days 29-35)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. Rapid growth and development has already happened, now the pups start to wonder further away from their whelping box, and vigorous rough housing for dominance order has started; the pups may even form groups and participate in bullying activities, these groups may or may not always be the same but you may notice 1 or 2 pups forming a bond or separation a little stronger than others.
2. The pups are really starting to adapt to eating and drinking

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Give Canine Spectra 5 vaccines on day 29 (Canine Distemper, Canine Hepatitis, Canine Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza and Parvovirus)
2. Position the pens perimeter walls so that the pups are able to look outside.
3. Allow pups to nurse one final time on the 4th day of week 5
4. On day 2 of week 5 introduce new feed that has Calf Liver, and reduce the amount of Milk Supp in food
5. Introduce the pups to the other members of the pack in the home as well as new people

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. After day 4 of week 5, the bitch is done she’s no longer allowed to nurse her pups, the drying up process will start in the morning, and will last for the next 5 days.
2. Day 1 of dry up she is fed nothing, day 2 she’s fed ¼ her normal maintenance meal, day 3 ½ her normal maintenance meal, day 4 3/4 normal maintenance meal, and on day 5 she’s fed her full amount of normal maintenance meal
3. For the next 2 weeks give the bitch 250mg of vitamin C 2x’s a day, 2 Bovine Colostrum Caps before bed, and 1 additional tab of her normal Multivitamin in the morning, to help her recover from the strain of breeding, whelping, and raising pups
4. Keep a careful eye on mammary glands

TO DO LIST

1. Make and freeze a batch of Muscle Meat, Meaty Bones, Calf Liver, and now Calf Kidney
2. On the last day of week 5 introduce the pups to a secured sanitized patio pen
3. Continue weighing pups every 2 days while keeping detailed records on puppies weights, developments, and behaviors
   

Week Six (Days 26-42)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. Pups are thriving and have been enjoying looking outdoors and seeing other dogs go in and out, while interacting with them through the perimeter gates. They have their legs really under them running around in the pen, barking, growling, whining, some even howling.  The pups are really into feeding time and can’t wait to feed.

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Give Kennel Jec-2 vaccines on day 26 (Bordetella and Parainfluenza)
2. Time to start taking the pups outside to go potty and to play on a daily basis
3. On day 2 of week 6 introduce the pups to the new feed that has Calf Kidney
4. Individual attention crucial at this time, give each puppy time with you away from litter
5. Individually go over single word commands daily, sit, stay, come, names, outside, inside, potty, eat
6. Deworming of the pups is required again with NeMex-2 on day 42

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. Keep a careful eye on mammary glands until milk is completely dried up

TO DO LIST

1. Begin to check the pups weight weekly, while continuing to keep detailed records on puppies weights, developments, and behaviors
2. Make and freeze a batch of Muscle Meat, Meaty Bones, Calf Liver, Calf Kidney, and now Veggie/Herb mix.
   

Week Seven (Days 43-49)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. The pups now have total hearing and visual capacity, and will investigate everything. They are responding to the jinglebells well to be let out, yet still don’t respond to names and that’s ok. Going outdoors is the highlight of their day, oh and the attention that they get individually seems not to be enough. The whelping box has been removed and a large enough crate for all pups has been introduced.

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. On day 1 of week 7 introduce chicken legs, on day 2 introduce the pups to the new feed that has Veggie/Herb mix but begin to feed them in individual bowls.
2. Pack play is extremely important, but be vigilant also, begin to reinforce human commands sit, stay, come, names, outside, inside, potty, eat

CARE OF THE BITCH

1. Continue to keep a careful eye on mammary glands
   

Week Eight (Days 50-56)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

1. Wooohoooo they have begun to learn their names, and normally by now if you haven’t seen it already, the pups enter into their first fear period. Things may startle the pups like a bag flying in the wind, pans falling on the ground, the vacuum, trash cans and so on, but it's extremely important to reassure the pup right away and make them conquer the fear to build trust in you the human and confidence in the pup itself.

CARE OF THE PUPPIES

1. Give Canine Spectra 5 vaccines on day 50 (Canine Distemper, Canine Hepatitis, Canine Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza and Parvovirus)
2. Deworming of the pups is required again with NeMex-2 on day 56
3. Don't ship pups, yet pups may be released into trustworthy hands at the end of the week

TO DO LIST

1. Introduce collars and leashes
2. Reinforce training daily, pups should really be getting the basics down.

ANY FURTHER QUESTIONS FEEL FREE TO CONTACT ME